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Home / Instructions / Under-Table Rails

Under-Table Rails

Screw the rails to the underside of a desk or shelf - every case slides into them, and every row below hangs from the row above. Step 1 is the only step with screws.

Sizes: W is width (1W = 88 mm) and H is height (1H = 56 mm, 0.5H is half of that). The collection number - 115, 185, 240 - is the case depth in mm.

5 stepsUnder-tableAll six collectionsRelated: Hanging builds
Tools and preparation
  • Drill + driver, and an awl or punch if you plan to pre-drill
  • Wood screws for the rail - see the screw note below before you buy
Surface thickness and screws

The default is a #6 × 3/4" wood screw. Check the thickness of your surface first and pick a screw that cannot break through the top. On hard surfaces it can help to pre-drill: mark through the rail holes, tap a small divot with an awl so the bit does not wander, then drive the screws.

A finished two-row build hanging under a table surface on its rails
Where this guide ends: two rows riding the rails under the surface, drawers at desk height.

What you'll need

Quantities depend on your layout - the Planner works them out for your build, and every official kit lists them exactly.

1

Mount the rail under the surface

Hold the rail against the underside and drive the wood screws up through its countersunk holes.

PLACEMENTSet the rail square to the front edge of the surface, its front flush with the edge - the drawer faces finish just proud of it. Wider rows butt their rail tiles end-to-end in line.
SCREW LENGTHDefault is a #6 × 3/4" wood screw - check your surface's thickness and choose a screw that cannot break through the top.
Animation: the under-table rail takes its position and wood screws drive up into the surface
Photo · two drawers hanging from a rail under a workbench
Two stacked cases with orange and gray drawer fronts hanging from an under-table rail beneath the steel lip of a wooden-topped workbench
2

Fit the QuickLocks, slide the case in

Drop a QuickLock into each side channel, then slide the case straight into the rails until both click up.

SPRING TIPThe QuickLock drops in easily - if it catches, guide the springy end with a finger as it seats.
Animation: QuickLocks drop into the side channels and the case slides back into the under-table rails until they click
Photo · the spring end goes in first
A thumb and finger lowering an orange QuickLock, its coiled spring end down, into the slot in the top of a black case wall; a second QuickLock is already seated in the far wall
3

Hang the rows below

The underside of every case carries the same grooves as the rails - slide the next case in exactly the same way. No screws between cases.

Animation: a second case slides into the grooves under the first and its QuickLocks click up
Photo · offering the next case up under the bench
A hand lifting a small black case, orange QuickLocks in its walls, up to a case already hanging under a bench
4

Drawers in

Tilt the front of the drawer up 20 to 30 degrees, start its back end into the case - that clears the stoppers - then level it out as it slides flush.

MAGNET CLOSURESOptional magnets pull the drawer shut. Match each drawer magnet's polarity to its case magnet - reversed magnets repel the drawer. A pin through the hole in the floor pushes a misplaced magnet back out. Polarity, in full →
Animation: the drawers slide into the hanging cases
5

Removing a case

Take the drawer out, press both QuickLocks down, and pull the case straight out of the rails.

CHECK THE QUICKLOCKSThe small slots on the case flank show the QuickLock tab - use them to confirm it is engaged, or reach a small hex key in to pull a tab down.

Open your own layout in the Planner for a guided 3D assembly of your exact build. Next: how the QuickLocks, stoppers and magnets work

Animation: close on the slot in the case flank as the QuickLock tab presses down, then the case slides out of the rails and the tab springs back up