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Wall Mount Lite

Fix the top row of cases to the wall - every row below hangs from it. One drill, five steps, and no screws between cases.

Sizes: W is width (1W = 88 mm) and H is height (1H = 56 mm, 0.5H is half of that). The collection number - 115, 185, 240 - is the case depth in mm.

5 stepsWall mountAll six collectionsRelated: Hanging builds

Tools and preparation

Drill + bit, screwdriver, and a level - the level is not optional here
#6 or #8 countersunk wood screws, and anchors if your wall needs them - see the note below

Wall type and anchors

Use countersunk screws and anchors appropriate for your wall construction. Drywall almost always wants anchors; solid wood usually does not. The screws shown in the animations are an illustration, never a length spec.

A finished two-row wall-mounted build hanging on its Wall Mount Lite brackets — Where this guide ends: a two-row build on the wall, every case hanging from the row above.

What you'll need

Quantities depend on your layout - the Planner works them out for your build, and every official kit lists them exactly.

Wall Mount BracketsFix the top row to the wall1W, 2W and 3W tiles - there is no 4W bracket, so a 4W case takes 2W+2W or 1W+3W.
Purchased HardwareWood screws, plus anchors if your wall needs themLength depends on the wall - see Tools and preparation.
Caseschoose your collectionThe build itself
QuickLockJoin each case to the one above it
Coverschoose your collectionClose the top of the top row
Drawer StoppersoptionalStop a drawer pulling all the way out
Magnet InsertsoptionalMagnetic drawer closure - plus purchased magnets

Level the bracket, then mark

Hold the bracket flat against the wall where the top row will sit. Put a level on it and get it true, then mark through the bracket's own screw holes and drill.

LEVEL FIRSTIf this row is not level, every row below inherits the lean - they all hang off it.

WALL TYPEUse anchors appropriate for your wall construction - drywall almost always wants them.

DIAGRAM

The bracket is its own drill template - there is no separate template to print.

Fix the bracket and screws

The bracket takes two screws for every 1W of width - six for a 3W bracket. Each one goes through a raised sleeve on the face of the bracket and seats fully inside it. Start them all before you tighten any, so the bracket can still settle, then check the level once more and drive each screw home.

CHECK IT AGAINA bracket walks as the first screw pulls it in - marking level is not the same as mounting level. This is the last moment a lean is free to fix.

TEST FITHang an empty case before loading anything - it should seat with light tension and lift back off cleanly.

THE SLEEVES ARE THE PEGSThe case hangs on the bracket's sleeves, not on the screws: each sleeve surrounds its screw, and the keyholes in the back of the case slide over it. A screw head left standing out of its sleeve stops the case going on.

WHICH SCREWSGo into a wall stud wherever you can, and use a longer screw if you want more bite. In drywall with no stud behind it, use wall anchors and the screw they call for. The screws in the animation are an illustration, never a length spec.

Animation: the Wall Mount Lite bracket and its wood screws take their positions on the wall

Cover the top case

Do this at the bench. QuickLocks go into the top cases first. Slide the Cover Lower on from the back until the QuickLocks click. If you printed drawer stoppers, snap one Left + Right pair per top-row drawer into its outermost slots now. Then snap the Cover Upper on over it.

WHY AT THE BENCHCovers slide back-to-front - on the wall there is no room behind the case.

Animation: QuickLocks, the Cover Lower, drawer stoppers and the Cover Upper assemble onto the top case at the bench

Photo · the cover layers in hand

Hang it on the pegs

Lift the covered case to the wall and lower it so the keyholes on its back slide over the bracket's pegs - the sleeves around each screw.

X-RAY VIEWThe animation ghosts the case so you can watch the keyholes engage - the reference photo shows the same keyholes on the printed part.

Animation, x-ray view: the case turns translucent as its back keyholes catch the wall pegs and it drops into place

Photo · the keyholes on the case back

The keyhole slots on the back of a case that catch the wall screws

Hang the rows below

Slide each lower case straight in from the front - the QuickLocks click up when it seats. No screws between cases.

MAGNET CLOSUREAdding magnets? Match each drawer magnet's polarity to its case magnet - reversed magnets repel the drawer. A pin through the hole in the floor pushes a misplaced magnet back out. Polarity, in full →

From here it is drawers and faceplates as usual - or open your own layout in the Planner for a guided 3D assembly of your exact build. Next: how the QuickLocks, stoppers and magnets work

Animation: the lower case slides in from the front and its QuickLocks click into the case above

Photo · the rows hanging below the bracket

A finished wall build: a column of cases with orange drawers and open shelf bays hanging beneath the top row on a wood-panelled wall

Optional: fasten a case to the wall

For a more permanent installation, use the additional screw hole in the back of a case to secure that case directly to the wall. Cases 1H and taller, and Case Extenders, have one in the center of each 1W column, low on the back wall. 0.5H cases do not have this hole. With the case hung and its drawer out, drive one of the same countersunk wood screws through the hole from inside the case. Seat the screw head in the inside countersink, and check that it does not interfere with the drawer.

BEFORE YOU MOVE ITTake this screw out before you lift or slide that case off. The screws in the wall mount stay where they are.

NOT A RATINGAn extra screw is extra fastening. No load rating is published, with or without it.

The back of a white 1W-1H case seen straight on: two keyhole peg slots, and between them, low on the back wall, a small round hole ringed in orange and labeled wall-fastening hole

The back of a 1W-1H case